Petrovaradin Fortress: the clock that tells time backwards
How to walk the fortress, when to go for the light, and why the big hand shows the hours.
Petrovaradin Fortress rises above the right bank of the Danube, opposite the centre of Novi Sad. It is one of the largest fortresses of its kind in Europe, and it has a clock that makes almost everyone stop and look twice.
The clock that tells time backwards
On the clock tower of the upper fortress, the hands are swapped: the big hand shows the hours and the small hand shows the minutes. The usual explanation is practical. The larger hand could be read from far away, including by boatmen on the Danube, and the hour was what they needed to know. Locals call it the "drunken clock" (pijani sat), because at first glance it always seems to be wrong.
To read it: look at where the long hand points and treat it as the hour hand; the short hand gives the minutes.
A fortress built for a frontier
The present fortress was built mainly in the 18th century by the Habsburg Monarchy, on a site that had been fortified for many centuries before. It was designed on the star-shaped model of the time, with walls, bastions and ditches following the rock above the river.
Below ground runs a network of military tunnels on several levels, reported to be many kilometres long. Parts of it can be visited with a guide. Above ground, the former barracks and arsenal buildings now house artists' studios, a museum, cafés and, every summer, the stages of the EXIT festival.
How to walk it
- Start from the city side. Cross the Danube on foot from the centre of Novi Sad; the walk from the main square takes about 20 minutes.
- Climb to the upper fortress. Stairs and ramps lead up from the lower town (Podgrađe). The climb is short but steep in places.
- Walk the walls. The paths along the upper walls give the best views over the Danube and the city.
- Visit the clock tower last, and then walk down through the lower town's quiet streets.
Allow one and a half to two hours without the tunnels.
When to go for the light
The fortress faces the city across the river to the west-northwest, so the late afternoon and the hour before sunset are the best time: the light falls on the walls and the city turns gold below. Mornings are quieter and cooler in summer. During EXIT (usually in July) the fortress is closed for the festival and busy for days around it; check dates if you want it calm.
Practical notes
- Wear flat shoes: the paths are cobbled.
- There are cafés and toilets in the upper fortress.
- Entry to the grounds is free; the museum and the tunnels have their own tickets.
Our Petrovaradin and the Old Centre tour combines the fortress with a walk through Novi Sad's centre, and Danube Day from Belgrade arrives at the fortress for golden hour.
